April 2013 – Visits to gardens on the Côte Varoise
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Le Domaine du Rayol, Le Rayol-Canadel
We had a wonderfully warm sunny spring day for our visit. The sea was sparkling; the vegetation was lush. It’s a beautiful location, a 20 hectare estate of meandering paths, arriving eventually at a private Mediterranean beach.
There are many surprises; moments after enjoying the shade provided by majestic trees a path leads you into an open area with quite different plants basking in sunshine.
The garden comprises zones of the Mediterranean climates of the world. Each is discreetly labelled, and the invisible boundaries of the zones and the freedom of plants to seed where they will, allow the plants to migrate across the invisible borders, rather like Nationals of the European Union!
The tapestry and textures of distant plants and glimpses of the sea spur an impatience to seek them out while the magical beauty of the moment demands that you linger to enjoy the plants around you.
The garden is controversial. The indigenous vegetation forms a strong partnership with the plants imported to represent the Mediterranean climate zones. It is an informal garden, very natural in style with no plant labels. Some might say that there are too many weeds, arising from the policy to allow indigenous plants to thrive as vigorously as brought in plants. This policy prompts fundamental questions about the nature and role of a garden and the balance of its ownership shared between the planet and mankind.
We split into two groups, for a 1.5 or 3 hour tour. Although few of us have such idyllic conditions, not least a frost free environment, the enthusiasm and passion of the staff and the beauty of the place are inspirational. Towards the end of our visit we were invited to do some weeding, as a practical illustration of the labour involved in maintaining a formal garden. Most of the party joined in. Some of us did not. Was it because we were convinced of the philosophy behind the garden, or because we were on holiday away from hands-on gardening?
It’s a garden to be visited often, not just to see it in different seasons, but also because it takes time to imbibe the majesty and beauty of the whole. A ‘jardin remarquable’ indeed.
Plants in flower at the Domaine du Rayol in April:
Text: Julia Petty
Photographs: Graham Petty and Christine Daniels